| Now, as press, this didn’t really seem like a great way to advertise concerts,
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| but it sounded like fun anyway
|
| And I stayed at the palace in one of the former king’s harem houses.
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| Each of the king’s wives had had her own house guarded by a pair of animals.
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| A bear and a fox, for example. |
| By the time I got there, years later,
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| the menagerie had dwindled a bit: my house was guarded by two tropical fish
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| Bali was extremely hot in the afternoons, and the conversations with the prince
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| drifted along randomly from topic to topic. |
| The prince was a bon vivant,
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| trained in Paris, and he spoke excellent English. |
| And when he wasn’t in the
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| palace he was out on the bumpy back roads racing cars. |
| So we talked about cars,
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| a subject I know absolutely nothing about, And I felt that as far as
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| representing the Western world was going, I was failing pretty dismally
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| Then, on the second night, the prince served an elaborate feast of Balinese
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| dishes. |
| At the end of the meal, the conversation slowed to a halt,
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| and after a few minutes of silence he asked:
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| «Would you like to see the cremation tapes of my father?»
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| The tapes were several hours long, and were a record of the elaborate
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| three-month ceremony shot by the BBC
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| When the king died the whole country went to work building an enormous funeral
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| pyre for him. |
| After months of preparation, during which time the corpse
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| continues to reside in the living room, they hoisted the body to the top of
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| this rickety, extremely flammable structure, and lit a match. |
| The delicate
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| tower crumbled almost immediately, and the king’s body fell to the ground with
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| a sickening thud. |
| Suddenly, everyone began to cheer
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| Later, I learned that the Balinese believe that the soul is a bird,
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| and that when the body falls, it shakes the bird loose and gives it a head
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| start on its way to heaven |